I did a ride (commute ) on the way home. 12,5 miles and used the Power target to keep to. then I noticed the cadence target. So I attempted to follow that, and then I realised something. Cadence was generally 84 rpm for flats and 90+ for downhills. And then on a hill with 1:4 sections the target cadence drooped to below 50… IO then realised/thought that Magic buckets was using the gradient to determine what my cadence should be to maintain my target power. WOW!
Finished the ride feeling much less fatigued than normal (N=1) but will be trying to keep to both the target power and cadence for endurance rides in future
Cadence optimizer uses your recent cadence-to-power patterns to recommend cadence. So on a climb, out of the saddle, it will shift to be in lower value. If you run out of gears (downhill or uphill) you may end up with some skewing that will work itself out once you go back to pedaling normally again.
ah thank you @xertedbrain, that makes sense as on that hill I normally try to stay below LT1 HR so slow cadence and light on the pedals even on the 1:4 sections. Riding a mtb on the road helps with the gearing!
CO (cadence optimizer) as it’s known on the Rainbow Gauge (Remote and Session Player) is your preferred cadence at torque.
IME it’s the most efficient rpm based on your natural cadence at various strain levels.
That can change over time for some. For example, someone new to cycling may start out at 60-70 rpm on the flats and gradually discover 80-90+ is better as they become proficient at cycling.
OTOH a natural grinder (aka diesel) isn’t likely to become a fast spinner regardless of how much they practice cadence drills.
Indoors I think CO is highly useful when you are forced to tackle HIT intervals under ERG control. The gauge warns you what to rev up to before the interval hits.
If the same watts feel easier at higher rpm that means less stress on your body and mind.
Outdoors I think many cyclists are probably under-geared because top-end road groups are designed for elite/pro ranks.
On my last bike purchase I went with DA and that meant 50/34 with 11-34 cassette as the lowest gear option. That didn’t pan out well for me.
I’m a spinner and the longer I can maintain 90+ the better I am at sustaining an effort.
Now I’m on GRX 48/31 with an 11-36 cassette. Even that’s not low enough for some steep pitches where I live. At least not at my age and strength.
If I can spin fast, I can go faster, longer. Drop below 80 rpm and I have to ease up sooner.
Grinding too much triggers my lumbar and left leg sciatic pain but that’s another story.
A lower gear range allows you to ride more routes at a Z2 pace when that’s the goal for the day.
Indoors CO also keeps my RIBs in check. There is little point spinning faster than you need to on rest intervals. That only keeps your HR and sweat level up which curtails the recovery interval.
That’s just the effect of your chosen cadence.
